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02/18/2011 12:54 PM

Fashion Week: Calvin Klein sticks to signature styles, simple palette

Calvin Klein took the Fall 2011 men and women’s collections out of the Lincoln Center tents, instead deciding to show in the Calvin Klein design studios. George Whipple was there and filed the following report.

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NEW YORK, N.Y. -- Calvin Klein's signature styles were honored with simple silhouettes and a mono-chromatic palate, which included slate, desert, cream, along with his staples, black and white. The garments were textured and tapered, but balanced.

Klein handpicked Francisco Costa to design the women's line.

"Starting with a more complex shape and go along and trim it down, we edit, we edit, and we edit,” Costa said of his design process. “Playing with the structure, playing with the cut, you know, moving slightly the shoulders, creating an energy between the fabric and the actual pattern. So, it's a real long process, but it's always good for me to explore and then to reduce."

Calvin Klein was one of the design geniuses of this century and it took two men to replace him. Both Costa and men’s designer Italo Zucchelli held their shows in Calvin Klein's studio, which is truly a temple to the art of fashion.

Zucchelli’s fall design encompassed a palette of grays, punctuated by neon blue. His designs eschew the formal and have a casual elegance. And his fabrics? Well, for him, opposites attract.

"To put together a very sophisticated and also dressy way of wearing the clothes or with something more casual, which is, in my opinion, very American,” Zucchelli said. “It's like the opposites that attract themselves."